~pjgh

LSP? “Last Step Protection” … detailer-speak for wax or sealant; the last product applied that is there to protect the finish.

Your choice of LSP is very important. While it is true that pretty much all waxes and all sealants will be within a small band of each other in terms of looks, protection and ongoing looks, that band is actually quite wide when the subtleties are considered. Again, generally speaking sealants leave a glassy look which waxes provide a warmer depth. Your final choice of LSP will depend upon a couple of other factors, such as the age and style of the car but once you’ve decided upon which one you want to use … how do you get the very best from it?

First, application. It’s all in the preparation - this is a rule. Poor preparation and the wax will not be happy, nor will it improve the look.

Preparation comes with a number of considerations, but the end result must be the same - good looking, clean paintwork that is free of greasiness to give the wax the best chance of bonding. The process might be to machine polish with abrasive polishes and wipe down with an IPA solution, it might be to use an all-in-one polish that might well contain fillers, it might be to use a succession of products to provide a layered effect with a polish, glaze and sealant or it might be a simple pre-wax cleanser.

I’ll come onto that last one in a minute, but I will say at this stage that the lines of distinction between those products is often blurred. Whichever routine you use to prepare … the end result must be the same - good looking, clean paintwork that is free of greasiness to give the wax the best chance of bonding.

Back to the pre-wax cleanse. This is a step that I consider to be of more importance than we might think.

While most AIOs contain a chemical cleanser, they contain a number of other properties such as a light polish and a sealant - they live up to their name as a “one hit” product that covers a number of steps and a couple spring to mind as most suitable for just about any finish: Car-Lack68 NSC and Autoglym Super Resin Polish.

Many wax manufacturers will produce their own pre-wax cleanser, such as Victoria Wax with their Light and Deep Cleanse products, Zymol’s HD Cleanse, Swissvax Cleaner Fluid and Dodo Juice Lime Prime/Lite. It is not just limited to wax, Duragloss produce a “pre-bonding agent” for their sealants and it is this very product that brings me to consider the pre-wax cleanse is more important than we might think providing an interface product for the wax to bond … an epoxy, certainly for the Duragloss product, and an interface product that assists bonding.

While many waxes contain their own solvents and cleansing agents which clean up any greasiness and prepare for the wax to bond well, more boutique waxes … which is pretty much anything above basic waxes, like Collinite, Simoniz or Turtle Wax … more boutique waxes can really benefit from their own dedicated pre-wax cleanser. As discussed, this can often be an AIO polish, like Car-Lack68 NSC or Autoglym Super Resin Polish or in the absence of their own dedicated pre-wax cleanser, one of the good, more generic cleansers such as Dodo Juice Lime Prime/Lite, Serious Performance Paint Cleanser, Sonus Paintwork Cleanser or for polyaminosilicone sealants (that’s “pure” sealants, to normal people), Duragloss 601.

It is my considered experience that this step particularly sets the wax up for a long life; its “durability”, some might say.

Durability? What exactly does that mean? It might well mean the long life of the wax, the protection that it provides and the justification for the manufacturers’ claims of “up to 12 months”, but we want more out of our waxes … namely, good beading, continued water repellance and glossiness.

So, we must consider washing and maintaining. Washing the car is necessary for removing dirt and greasiness that is kicked up when the car is driven, or parked on the roadside.

We know that the wash routine is of paramount importance - shampoo at the correct dilution, two buckets so as not to continually work the removed dirt back over the paint, a sheepskin mitten with its deep pile, sheet rinsing to get the majority of water off and a drying towel to pat the remaining droplets off.

But what about the choice of shampoo? Well, unsurprisingly the formulators at the wax manufacturer will ensure that their shampoo will work with their products. You might well be thinking that a shampoo is a shampoo is a shampoo and how can it matter? Recall, we’re finding absolute perfection here!

Like a dedicated pre-wax cleanser for a particular boutique wax, the manufacturers’ shampoo is the best choice for maintenance. I have witness Dodo Juice Supernatural beautifully revived by their own Supernatural Shampoo, yet kill the beading of Swissvax Best of Show. Likewise, Autoglym Bodywork Shampoo and Conditioner is an excellent choice for their HD Wax but a poor choice for Chemical Guys Pete’s 53, for example. Try to keep manufacturers together but where you are using a mix of products there are a number of good choices as more generic shampoos - my favourite being Finish Kare 1016.

The shampoo will revive beading, sheeting and glossiness. It is with this in mind, coupled with the stronger application of wax prepared with a suitable cleanser/bonding agent that prompts me to say this: enjoy the wax, uncompromised by further products such as QDs or drying aids.

Sheet rinsing and patting off the remaining droplets with a drying towel is quite sufficient - remember, drying aids contain properties that break water down and so will reduce or entirely remove beading. Remember also that any product that you put onto the finish after the wax becomes the new LSP, so to speak. If you absolutely have to use such a product ensure that you also have a good, complimentary re-beading product.

I may appear to have tied myself up here in a tangle around QDs. Used purely as a drying aid with every wash is in my opinion unnecessary and detracts from the enjoyment of the wax itself, but further down the line as the beading starts to wane and the look, once washed, could be more glossy it is the quick detailer, show detailer or spray wax that provides a time-effective alternative to re-waxing.

You guessed it … I’m going to recommend selecting such a product from the same manufacturer as the LSP. This type of product varies from a simple QD that can revive the shine, through products rich in the same properties as the LSP to dedicated spray waxes and sealants.

Victoria Wax Quick Detail Spray, for example, is just that … a shine enhancing spray that boost the performance of the wax by cleaning off any greasiness back to a good wax surface. Duragloss 951 is a product rich in the same properties as their 105 Total Performance Polish (actually, a sealant) and will boost the performance of that sealant in the same way as Sonus Acrylic Glanz is specifically designed to refresh the look and protection of the Klasse/Car-Lack68 products. Show Detailers like Zaino Z8 are rich in gloss enhancing polymers to adjust the look of the wax, making it deeper and pure liquid sealants, like Dodo Juice Red Mist actually provide a definite layer of sealant over the LSP which gives its own look and protection, as does Swissvax Nano Express.

Selecting the right product is down to both a consideration of what will actually work best with your LSP and what it is you’re trying to achieve. In the early stages of the wax cycle, I believe it is best to simply wash and dry. As the cycle progresses it is sometimes necessary to switch to a wash/wax shampoo to revive beading and to use a spray product over the paint to revive glossiness and perhaps enhance protection. Towards the end of the cycle, that becomes absolutely necessary.

Of course, there’s nothing to stop you re-waxing mid-cycle, say after 6-8 weeks to enjoy a futher 6-8 weeks, rather than use additional products to stretch the cycle out to three months. You can do this without having to polish, but cleansing can be as quick a task as spritzing over with a QD and drying in preparation for this fresh layer of wax.

So, in summary …

Prepare the paint - abrasive polish or AIO polish
Prepare for the wax - complimentary pre-wax cleanser
Protect the paint - wax or sealant
Enjoy for 6-8 weeks with regular washing using a complimentary shampoo
Revive - either re-wax or use an additional product to revive beading and gloss
Enjoy for a further 6-8 weeks if re-waxed or 4 weeks if using additional products
Restart the cycle …

Practical examples?

Dodo Juice
Polish the paintwork to perfection
Pre-cleanse with Dodo Juice Lime Prime Lite
Wax with Dodo Juice Supernatural wax … leave 15 minutes, buff off, spritz with chilled distilled water after 30 minutes and re-buff
Enjoy for 6-8 weeks, washing with Dodo Juice Supernatual Shampoo
Revive initial looks with a fresh layer of wax (I actually use Dodo Juice Rainforest Rub at this stage, just because I like it) or switch to a wash/wax shampoo such as Dodo Juice Sour Power
Further revive beading and glossiness with Dodo Juice Red Mist
Enjoy for a further 4 weeks
Restart the cycle …

Let’s shake things up a bit and start with lightly swirled paintwork …

Duragloss
Hide swirling with Duragloss 671
Apply Duragloss 601 Pre-Bonding Agent to prepare for the sealant
Apply Duragloss 105 Total Performance Polish
Enjoy for 2-3 months washing regularly with Duragloss 901 Shampoo
As the beading starts to wane, revive with a spritz of Duragloss 951
Enjoy for a further month, or so
Restart the cycle …

How about using a mix of products? Say, for example, a winter protection?

Car-Lack/Collinite
Prepare with Car-Lack68 NSC … leave 30 minutes and do not buff off
Seal with Car-Lack68 LLS applied over the top of the haze and buff both off together
Wax with Collinite 476S or 915 depending upon light or dark coloured paintwork
Enjoy for 3-4 months through winter, washing regularly with Finish Kare 1016 shampoo
Particularly bright, crisp winter days might well make use of Zaino Z8 spritzed over after drying to deliver a really attractive finish
Move on to your springtime choice of products …

Springtime routine? Let’s use a number of products! We can machine polish later, but the long winter is over and we just want to get a fresh coat of something on the car …

Clearkote/Victoria Wax
Cleanse/Polish with Clearkote Vanilla Hand Moose Glaze
Deepen and fill some swirling with Chemical Guys EZ Creme Glaze
Wax with Victoria Wax Concours/Collectors … 2-3 coats applied in fairly rapid succession
Enjoy for 3-4 weeks washing regularly with Finish Kare 1016
Re-Wax after 3-4 weeks with a fresh coat of Victoria Wax Concours/Collectors preparing with a spritz of Victoria Wax Quick Detail Spray
Repeat a couple of times

Finally, how about a modernised legacy manufacturer?

Autoglym
Prepare with Autoglym Super Resin Polish for lightly swirled finishes or Autoglym HD Cleanser for well kept finishes
Wax with Autoglym HD Wax
Enjoy for 2-3 months washing regularly with Autogylm Bodywork Shampoo and Conditioner
As beading starts to wane, use Autoglym Aqua Wax to assist the drying process and leave a coating of waxiness to assist protection
Enjoy for a few more weeks
Restart the cycle …

Hopefully, there’s a good mix of routines to show off some examples of how keeping manufacturers together can be very beneficial, but also how you can deviate from that “rule” and still get excellent results that will last.

Momentum … once it has started, there’s no stopping it …

Might as well strap in and hold on because it looks like I’m already committed!

LOL … you guys
http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7552

3M Finesse-It III Fast Cut Plus (3M50417)/Green Pad (3M50487)
3M Finesse-It III Extra Fine Polish (3M80349)/Yellow Pad (3M50488)
3M Finesse-It III Ultrafina SE Polish (3M50383)/Blue Pad (3M50388)
3M Perfect-It III Finishing Glaze (3M09377)
3M Perfect-It Show Car Paste Wax (3M39526)

Autobright Power Buff
Autobright Used Car Glaze
Autobright Top Line
Autobright Great White
Autobright Foam Pad Polish
Autobright Radiance
Autobright Purple Haze
Autobright Better Wax
Autobright TNT Treatment
Autobright Glass Cleaner
Autobright Water Slide

Autoglym Super Resin Polish
Autoglym Ultra Deep Shine
Autoglym HD Cleanser
Autoglym HD Wax
Autoglym Bumper Care
Autoglym Glass Polish
Autoglym Fast Glass
Autoglym Convertible Roof Cleaner
Autoglym Convertible Roof Proofer

Autosol Metal Polish

Car-Lack68 Nano-Systematic Care
Car-Lack68 Long Life Sealant

Collinite 476S
Collinite 845
Collinite 915

Dodo Juice Lime Prime
Dodo Juice Lime Prime Lite
Dodo Juice Need for Speed
Dodo Juice Sour Power Shampoo
Dodo Juice Supernatural Shampoo
Dodo Juice Rain Forest Rub Wax
Dodo Juice Supernatural Wax
Dodo Juice Red Mist
Dodo Juice Mellow Yellow Wheel Cleaner

Duragloss 671 Swirl Mark Remover
Duragloss 601 Bonding Agent
Duragloss 105 Total Performance Polish
Duragloss 951 Aqua Wax

Finish Kare 1016 Shampoo
Finish Kare 1000P ‘Great White’ Paste Sealant

Gliptone Leather Cleaner
Gliptone Leather Conditioner
Gliptone Leather Air Freshener

Lucas Slick Mist

Meguiars #83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish
Meguiars #80 Speed Glaze
Meguiars #3 Machine Glaze
Meguiars #7 Show Car Glaze
Meguiars #81 Hand Polish

Meguiars All Purpose Cleaner
Meguiars Super Degreaser

R222 Concours Wax

Serious Performance Ultra Citrus Cleaner
Serious Performance Ultra Wheel Gel
Serious Performance Ultra Gloss Shampoo
Serious Performance Finishing Polish
Serious Performance Paint Cleanser
Serious Performance Super Sealant
Serious Performance Show Car Detailer
Serious Performance Quick Detailer

Swissvax Car Bath
Swissvax Onyx
Swissvax Best of Show
Swissvax Nano Express

ValetPro Bilberry Wheel Cleaner
ValetPro Artemis Wax Seal

There are a number of questions about waxes that come up again and again, such as:

How do I prepare a surface for waxing?
How long should I leave the wax before buffing off?
How long must I leave it before adding a second layer?
When is it fully cured?

This advice is, for the most part, about wax but much of it holds true for sealants.

Let’s tackle the first matter: Bonding

For a wax to bond to paint, it must be clean. There are a number of ways of cleaning paint in preparation for a wax - a 50/50 solution of IPA and distilled water, a dedicated inspection spray (like Menzerna Top Inspection, or Meguiars Last Touch), a pure hand polish (such as Meguiars #7 or #81), a paint cleanser (like Serious Performance Paint Cleanser or AIOs, like Car-Lack68 NSC, AG SRP) or a dedicated pre-wax cleanser (such as Dodo Juice Lime Prime Lite, Zymöl HD Cleanse or Swissvax Cleaner Fluid).

The paint should be squeaky clean and gleaming.

Now, let’s apply the wax - use bare hands or a foam applicator. The use of bare hands should be restricted to pure waxes, such as those from Dodo Juice, those that state they should be applied by bare hand like Victoria Wax or those which fashion dictates like Zymöl and Swissvax. If you get an adverse reaction when applying wax by bare hand, wash your hands thoroughly using a pH neutral soap with moisturisers and apply a moisturiser after drying. Foam applicators should definitely be used with waxes that have an obviously high solvent content, such as Collinite 476S. Disposal gloves can be worn as further protection from solvents in wax products and this is a practice that is advocated by professionals who are in contact with such chemicals on a regular basis.

Many engineered waxes will contain some cleansing elements and often the high solvent content will assist with the cleaning up of the surface and evaporate quickly to allow the wax to then bond to the paint. More pure waxes also contain solvents and will do this as a natural by-process, but to a lesser extent. Neither excuses poor surface preparation!

Bare hand application is simply a case of transferring an amount of the wax from the pot to the palm of one hand, lifting it with the fingertips of the other and working is against the fingertips of the first hand. Use fingertips to apply in a stroking/grooming action going back over the area to even up. Foam pad application is also as simple as patting a moistened applicator into the wax and then spreading over the car - unless the instructions state otherwise, use long strokes in a fore/aft direction on the top panels and up/down on the side panels. Apply as thin a layer as possible, since “less is more” … read on.

We now step back and leave the product to haze.

This is the point at which the wax will bond to clean paint and often called curing. Curing is a process which will continue long after the wax haze has been removed, so I prefer to call this bonding although the curing process does cover this phase and the next. When considering hazing, we see how “less is more” - haze is simply waste product that is removed when the wax is buffed off and serves no purpose to the overall look or protection, since it is simply not on the car! Furthermore, a whisper thin layer will haze over quickly and the solvents evaporate more rapidly - I believe this allows the wax to bond more effectively, although I have no scientific backing; just the long term effect that the wax has on paint when observed over a period of months.

Once hazed, the wax is ready to remove.

Removal is simply a case of folding up a microfibre towel into quarters and gently wiping the residue off. The curing phase will continue for up to a couple of days until the wax has reached its most hardened. Some waxes may be observed to “sweat” a little - Dodo Juice Supernatural is one very pure wax where this is quite apparent. The oils in the wax continue to evaporate and sometimes, a slight hologram effect can be seen on the paint and if left, a secondary haze may occur. This is quite natural and should be dealt with by a spritz of distilled water, ideally, or a QD and wiped over again with a clean microfibre towel.

The bare minimum length of time before a second layer of wax can be applied is about one hour. This allows the majority of any residual oils to evaporate and the outer skin of what is a micron thin layer of product to start to harden. This process continues over the next day, or so, and so ideally the surface should be left for a good day before applying a second layer of wax.

Some people advocate applying a second layer of wax almost immediately to ensure good coverage. While there is some merit to this method, it is better to ensure that the initial layer is applied with adequate coverage. There is one technique which might have some sound logic and assist with the rapid application of a second layer of wax - spit shining. This is a technique where chilled distilled water is misted over the surface after the initial haze has been buffed off to cause the outer shell of the wax to cure quickly due to the chilling effect. The second layer of wax is applied to the moistened surface and left to cure as normal. Some people advocate not removing the haze from the first layer and mist over that haze, applying the second layer of wax without buffing off the layer of first wax.

Spit shining aside, if a second layer of wax is applied too soon the solvents will simply wipe off the underlying, unhardened layer of wax and there is no actual gain in doing so. The curing process can clearly be understood as taking place as soon as the wax starts to haze and continues long after that haze has been removed. Since the word curing is set in most people’s mind as the process which takes place between application and hazing, we should call this phase hardening.

One final area to consider is the layered approach - applying a wax on top of a glaze, or a sealant. Simply put, the same rules apply - these products must be allowed to bond, haze, cure and harden before the next layer is applied. Some products will do this faster than others and some are more suited to waxes that are high in solvent content - the Car-Lack68 Nano Systematic Care polish is a very rapidly curing product becoming ready for the next layer within half an hour and when followed with their Long Life Sealant is a preparation ready for a wax as strong in solvents as Collinite almost immediately. Products from the same stable are in many cases designed to work together, so Chemical Guys EZ Creme Glaze followed almost immediately by Jetseal 109, left for half an hour and then topped with Pete’s 53 Black Pearl Signature Paste Wax is a routine that will work well.

I hope that this clarifies each stage of the waxing process, what is happening at each stage and summarises that wax should be applied to clean, well prepared surfaces in as thin a layer as possible given good coverage, allowed to haze over and then permitted to harden in its own time.

Have a lot of fun …

Dodo Juice designed their Supernatural wax to be the purest - no additional colour and no addition scent. Now in version two, the wax represents one of the finest that can be applied to a perfectly polished car and the growing list of ancillary products make up quite a boutique kit:

• Supernatural Wax - Plastic Tub
• Supernatural Wax - Machine Stick
• Supernatural Wax - Iroku Wooden Container
• Supernatural Applicator
• Supernatural Clay
• Supernatural Shampoo
• Supernatural Wash Mitten - the ‘Wookie Fist’
• Supernatural Drying Towel - the ‘Jedi Blanket’

Firstly, the wax itself.

While there is no added scent, there is a most delicious scent - think sugary, like fine toffee.

The surface should be prepared with their Lime Prime or Lime Prime Lite pre-wax cleanser to ensure that the surface is clean and ready to accept a wax. Following machine polishing, a wipe down with Lime Prime Lite is perfect - many surfaces will respond to the gentle cutting action of Lime Prime if surface swirling is present.

Using the supplied finger foam applicator, the wax seems very hard and appears reluctant to transfer to the applicator. While that is a concern, it is unfounded - the wax transfer to the applicator is quite sufficient to put down a whisper thin layer, almost imperceptible, that will cure perfectly … a little faith is required: this is after all, Supernatural!

Applied to the car and curing:

After a short while, which could be between five and fifteen minutes the wax haze is ready to be removed. While this can be undertaken at the first point it is ready to be removed, it does no harm to leave the wax curing on the paint for any amount of time - even an hour, if you want to work at that pace.

Removal is as pleasant as application - simply wipe off the haze gently with a fine microfibre towel. No hard rubbing is required and any hint of a sticky patch is quite simply down to having applied the initial layer too thickly; the scant instructions on the tub do say not to ‘cake the product on’. This is very much a “less is more” product and in many respects, haze should be considered waste - that is the residue which is buffed off.

The result? Perfection!

Sometimes, which has been more often than not in my experience, a secondary haze appears after about half an hour of buffing. This is to be expected, according to Dodo Juice, and something that is easily remedied. Simply wipe over the surface again with a clean microfibre. Personally, I find a light spritz of chilled distilled water assists the complete removal much more effectively and would cite that as the most useful hint at this stage.

You can see the light hazing that has appeared here, presenting itself as a hologram effect:

Misted with chilled distilled water and gently buffed, that secondary hazing does not reappear:

In summary, the wax and the applicator are to be recommended. The application and removal is phenomenally easy. The downside is the secondary hazing which, once expected is easily remedied. The products are well made, the plastic pots tactile and no doubt the Iroku wood tub is a sheer delight to own.

Beading? In the rain, the surface becomes speckled with small beads of water, well spaced and upright.

A Detailer’s delight:

Proceeding to the first wash, the shampoo and wash mitten are found to be the perfect tools for the job.

Made from thick wool, specifically commissioned by Dodo Juice, the wash mitten is quite possibly the softest and deepest wash mitten on the market. Depth of the wool is important so that dirt on the surface of the paintwork is not ground in by the washing action, but drawn into the wool fibres and held safely out of the way. The mitten should be rinsed well before use and rinsed well after each section of the car is washed before placing back into the bucket of suds.

The shampoo is so very concentrated, that two pumps per “standard Halfords bucket” is all that is required. One pump per three litres of water is the published dilution rate and this will generate a bucket full of fine foam.

Upon immersing the wash mitten it becomes apparent just how much liquid this mitten can hold. One whole gallon can be withdrawn from the wash bucket and held over the bucket to drain will then happily transfer two litres of suds to the car. Most impressive and more important, very safe for washing - the shampoo is very lubricating and the suds, while they dissipate quite quickly, certainly assist in lifting dirt from the surface for the mitten to collect up as a moraine of water washes most straight off the car.

Once washed, the beading is revived:

Patted dry:

The shampoo and wash mitten are perfect partners to the wax, allowing for a gentle removal of dirt. Any glossing agents in the shampoo revive the initial look of the wax and the initial beading is certainly revived. One concern for some would be how the foaminess of the shampoo dilution in the bucket is lost quite quickly, but the lubricity of the shampoo by far makes up for any loss of bubbles.

The the purest look on the perfect paint, it simply has to be Supernatural:

I know … I know … I love car cleaning products. They’re like good wine - you just have to have a variety.

Pressed hard to define my perfect combinations, I have to start with the two cars that I detail regularly - our own SAAB 900s, one white, one black, both single stage paint.

… for white:

• 3M Paint Rectification System as required
• Serious Performance Paint Cleanser
• Duragloss 601 Bonding Agent
• Duragloss 105 Total Performance Polish
• Finish Kare 1000P ‘Great White’ Paste Sealant
• Finish Kare 1016 Wash & Wax Concentrate
• Serious Performance Show Detailer

This routine would do for many single-stage light colours.

… and for black:

• Meguiars #83/#80 as required
• Meguiars #9 for swirl mark removal
• Dodo Juice Lime Prime Lite
• Dodo Juice Supernatural (Pure Carnauba Wax)
• Dodo Juice Supernatural Shampoo
• Dodo Juice Red Mist

Meguiars #7 can be used over a wax or sandwiched between wax layers during the summer months to give a deep, oily shimmer to the paintwork.

This routine would also do for many older single-stage dark colours. This is the most pure routine I have worked out to compliment our near perfectly kept Classic SAAB 900 convertible but many marques benefit from Swissvax Best of Show, if only for owner gratification.

The following are routines I would call ’standard’ when faced with an unknown car.

… for metallics, including silver and coloured mica metallics:

• 3M Paint Rectification System as required
• Serious Performance Paint Cleanser
• 3M Perfect-It Show Car Paste Wax
• Finish Kare 1016 Wash & Wax Concentrate
• Serious Performance Show Detailer

Some darker metallics, like green, benefit from a pure wax - Dodo Juice Rainforest Rub or Supernatural being prime examples.

… for clearcoated flat colours (light):

• 3M Paint Rectification System as required
• Serious Performance Paint Cleanser
• Serious Performance Super Sealant
• Finish Kare 1000P ‘Great White’ Paste Sealant
• Finish Kare 1016 Wash & Wax Concentrate
• Serious Performance Show Detailer

With higher pigment light colours, like yellow, as warming wax can be used - Dodo Juice Banana Armour being a prime example.

… for clearcoated flat colours (dark):

• 3M Paint Rectification System as required
• Dodo Juice Lime Prime Lite
• Dodo Juice Rainforest Rub
• Dodo Juice Sour Power Shampoo
• Dodo Juice Red Mist

For some darker colours, like blue and even black, a colour-charged wax could be used - Dodo Jucie Blue Velvet and Purple Haze being prime examples. Fine cars would be finished with Dodo Juice Supernatural and top marques with Swissvax Best of Show.

The gentle art of hand polishing is often sidelined as a second-best method of achieving the perfect finish on automotive paint. As machine polishers have become more accessible and more competitively priced, one might ask why we carry on with hand polishing at all but there are any number of reasons. For me … simply put, I like to. I enjoy polishing paint by hand and I find that I can maintain a good finish to near perfection with ease.

So, to work … Firstly, consider the job in hand. At this point I will say that if you have a car that is covered in deep swirls and scratches, hand polishing is not going to be at all easy and might take a long long time to get right. That said, those kind of jobs are also not at all easy with a random orbital machine and will take a lot of time, eased only by experience and skill. There’s no reason why you should not bow out to someone with more experience and a machine polisher to get you up to scratch (so to speak). By all means have a go, but bear a few things in mind. Medium swirls and scratches are well within the scope of hand polishing and light swirling is easy to keep on top of.

Secondly, consider the amount of time it will take. Bear in mind that your own energy levels will be a consideration here as well as environmental considerations - check the weather for both bright sun and rain, since working outside in either conditions will cause problems. Tackle one panel at a time and if you run out of time or energy well no big deal … pick another day and do another panel. For big jobs that involve concentrated work on the whole car, plan to undertake the work over a number of sessions. To be fair, I think one or two top panels per session or one whole side per session. I find sides more difficult to work on.

I will say this - hand polishing is hard work. You will do a bad job if you are tired and cannot work the polishes through. You will have to repeat the work anyway on that panel so you might as well stop after a good success on one panel than stretch yourself over two and be disappointed.

Equipment? Well, if you’re doing sides make sure you have something comfortable to sit on or handy knee pads. Top panels can be worked on from a standing position.

So, we know what we are up against and how much time we have to do the job, or part of the job. We’re happy to split the job up over a number of sessions and we understand that we might need to stop due to energy levels.

What are the “rules” around hand polishing? Well, unsurprisingly they’re much the same as for machine polishing - use the least aggressive pad/polish combination that you think will to the job and increase as necessary, check your work often and be prepared for a number of “hits”.

Before looking at polishes, let’s look at pads. The good old terry pad with a pouch, as sold by Halfords, Tesco, Meguiars and a number of others is a tried and tested applicator, effective and a good pad to have in. A microfibre block is also an excellent choice. Beyond that, there are those hand pads that are made from the same foam as machine pads - applicators like the German Applicator or the Sonus Professional pads. Finally, there’s the machine pads themselves which can be attached to finger straps or handles by their velcro. Choose the ones you are most comfortable with - I like the Sonus Professional pads, microfibre blocks and terry pouched pads.

Now, onto the polishes. Polishes can be broadly broken down into a number of categories - Heavy, Medium, Light, Fine, Finishing, Pure and Glazing. There are also cleaner polishes that contain chemical cleaners to break down oxidisation and even “dual action” polishes that have a cleaning action and then when continued to work, they break down into a finer polish.

From heavy to fine, compounds should be worked in much the same way. On a surface that has been washed, dried and is free of dust and debris, prime the pad with a quick spritz of QD and then pop a couple of blobs of product onto the pad. Pick a work area between 12″ and 18″ square and rub the polish around that area. Work the polish in a consistent manner, so back and forth over the whole area, then left and right, then diagonal one way and then diagonal the other. Use a firm and even pressure at first and start to lessen up on the pressure as the polish starts to work - some may be hear to be abrading the surface and go quiet after a while. Always “work out” the polish - most polishes will worth through an reveal a glossy finish underneath, but some may be quite oily, especially the finishing polishes and pure polishes. Always read the label, since there may be special instructions, but generally that process will be fine and probably more effective than in a circular manner which is actually very tiring.

I said above that the general rule of thumb is to use the least aggressive pad/polish combo that you think will do the job, but if you are not making progress after a couple of hits, try a different combination by first selecting a pad with more bite and the same product and then a more aggressive product until you get some satisfaction. Also be away that many polishes will need finessing once worked through.

Different paints require different treatments. Some might be quite okay after a fine polish and not need finessing. Some might show up very light marring after such a polish and really benefit from a finishing polish. Likewise, some finishes might well be a little dry and benefit from an oil-rich pure polish to really bring the life back. Once polishes, a glaze is a very good step which adds a lot of gloss and wetness regardless of paint colour or finish - a step well worth doing.

Only when you are happy with the finish on a panel should you proceed to the wax or sealant and lock in your hard work. Remember that a car might take you a number of sessions and so you should concentrate on the work one panel at a time.

The last thing to consider when hand polishing is polishes with a filling content. Now we’ve polished our car properly with abrasive compounds and found out what hard work it is, it’s not a task that we want to have to undertake often or maybe even not again on that car. We do want to keep it looking good and there no reason not to use polishes with a filler content - as a general rule of thumb, polishes that call themselves a “wax polish” or an “all in one” will contain some fillers and do a light polish, fill in swirls and leave behind a limited layer of protection. These products can be used every so often to reduce the appearance of swirls that will undoubtedly plague your car again at some point. Some glazes also contain fillers or are heavy in oils that lessen the appearance of swirls.

When actually selecting polishes, it is wise to look at the instructions and to do some reading around their suitability for hand use. Almost all Fine, Finishing, Pure and Glazing polishes are going to work well by hand, but take some care in selecting anything more abrasive than that - often a little friction and machine power is needed to actually break down the compounds and work them. You might not be able to do this by hand and the compound will actually inflict greater swirls and scratches into the paint. If unsure, try it out in a inconspicuous place and inspect the results carefully.

I hope this has given a few pointers and some confidence to undertake the job with a product that is actually going to remove those swirls and scratches, rather than fill them. It is possible by hand, very rewarding, but be under no illusion - it is hard work.

Have fun …

Who? http://www.colliniteautomotive.com/

Widely regarded as the best value for money, longest lasting and best looking wax available. While Collinite manufacture a number of waxes for automotive use, it is their 476S, 845 and 915 products which seem to be the most widely used and best regarded.

I have not tried their Sapphire Paste Auto Wax (#73) or Sapphire Liquid Auto Wax (SS-126) largely because I have been unable to find a UK supplier of these waxes; that, and they contain strong cleaners and some abrasives which seem ideal for one-step recovery of neglected paintwork and perhaps more suited to the professional than the enthusiast detailer. Furthermore, these waxes are not recommended for cars with a clear coat.

Sapphire Pre-wax Cleaner (#840) is another product I have not tried, simply because I did not see a need for it - given the Sapphire name, I presume it to be a complimentary product for the other Sapphire waxes and perhaps not suited to the three that I have tried, two of which contain some cleaners anyway.

I wonder if I should use a cleaner? Well, Collinite offer the following advice, “only use the cleaner if the car is a non-clear coat lighter finish such as white, silver or tan. Clear coats and newer finishes do not require a cleaner and simply require a wax protectant. Always apply wax after using a cleaner.”Owning a single-stage white car, for the sake of completion I will no doubt try this product as some point in the future, but for now it’s 476S, 845 and 915.

First for discussion is 915, or Marque D’Elegance which Collinite describe as “the best in wax endurance, Marque D’Elegance is the product to have. Car enthusiasts demand a wax that is proven to protect in the most demanding environments, rain or shine, on track or on the street. They have discovered that Collinite Marque D’Elegance gives their valuable automotive investments a blinding, lasting shine because its formulated from the highest-ever concentration of pure Carnauba waxes … and no abrasives means all Collinite waxes are absolutely clear coat safe.”

On black paint, this wax does exactly that - it is glossy, strong and gives a warmth which coupled with the gloss translates as depth. Having used 476S beforehand and read that the difference in looks is subtle, if any I was very pleased to be able to see quite a difference. 915 is the richest in natural carnauba waxes and ideal for that little bit extra in terms of looks, best suited to dark, warm colours and darker metallics.

Expect this wax to last almost as long as its 476S sibling with 8-10 months, depending upon UV exposure according to Collinite.

Next for discussion is 476S, or Super Doublecoat Auto Wax for which Collinite say, “One of the finest paste type auto waxes available. Easy to apply and absolutely detergent-proof. Collinite Super Doublecoat is guaranteed to outlast and outshine any other competitive auto wax, polish or protective coating under any conceivable condition. That’s why it’s called the permanent auto wax. No hard rubbing or buffing… and no special applicator is required. Collinite Super Doublecoat will last a full year, even under adverse conditions.”

Again, clear coat safe this wax is a pleasure to use. I find 915 a lot easier to spread around and easier to remove once cured. Collinite put this down to the sheer amount of natural and synthetic waxes in the paste which is something to bear in mind when looking at comparisons with 845. More concentrated in synthetic waxes and suitable for all car colours, this wax does give a tremendous glossing to light coloured cars.

This is the longest-lasting of the Collinite waxes and according to Collinite, expect effects to last 9-11 months, depending upon UV exposure. In the British weather for a car kept outside on a busy main road I have seen 6 months!

What are the differences between 915 and 476S? Personally, I find the difference quite striking - 915 is much deeper while 476S much brighter and glossier. 476S lasts a little longer, too. Compared to a couple of similar products from Meguiars, 915 is much akin to #26 for the Mirror Glaze range and 476S comparable to #16 in terms of looks - in use, the Collinite waxes are much easier.

Finally, it’s time to look at 845, or Liquid Insulator Wax which Collinite describe as “a heavy duty liquid wax was originally developed for use by electric power companies for protection against high voltage power failure, fires and explosions. It’s primary use is on the finishes of automobiles, trucks, buses and airplanes where durability, high gloss and lasting protection are paramount. An excellent choice for fleet applications and very easy to use and requires minimum rubbing or buffing.”

Once again, a clear coat safe wax and one which I had the pleasure of using today. This is a truly superb wax and offers the best compromise between ease of use and durability. Made from the same ingredients as 476S but held in a liquid suspension in a less concentrated form, 845 can be expected to last for 5-7 months according to Collinite. I have yet to see what that claim translates to in the real world on cars left out in the open British weather. From experience of 915 and 476S I would suggest that figure might be more like 3-5 months, which by no means something to be sniffed at.

In use, this wax could be spread so easily and buffed off as easily as I have experienced from any wax, liquid or paste. I absolutely adore this wax and personally favour it over 476S. It put me very much in mind of P21S for ease of application and removal. Something to bear in mind is that this wax does not have the durability of either of its siblings and lacks the depth of 915. That said, it does not contains cleaners and as such can be layered without the need to wait a day between applications and can be used as a final coat on top of other waxes which may be used for a darkening or warming effect, 915 included.

One might ask why choose 476S at all. Well, it does contain some cleaners and lasts a staggering length of time. To that end, subsequent applications will clean up underlying layers without entirely removing them and is ideal for getting your car through one of our infamous British winters.

Perfect partners?

With 476S, I like to prepare the surface with Car-Lack68 Nano-Systematic Care which is an all-in-one paint cleaner, light polish and sealant with an optional layer of Car-Lack68 Longlife Sealant. These products are fast curing and can be followed on with 476S or even 915 without fear of their cleaners removing the underlying layers.

To make best use of the depth and warmth that comes from 915 I like to use a glaze beneath, which should be acrylic in nature or a pure polish. Chemical Guys EZ Creme Glaze and Meguiars #7 (from the Mirror Glaze range) seem ideal - remember, this is the Marque D’Elegance wax and suited to showing off the very best in your paint in good spring and summer light.

845 is a new product to me, but from experience I can see this as ideal on all car colours delivering a particularly impressive gloss on light coloured cars which seems to gain some depth with layering - almost like having a second clear coat! Used as a final coat on top of other products selected for their visual effects, I can see this wax being the icing on the cake in any enthusiast detailer’s routine.

I hope this has given you a little insight into the three more widely used Collinite waxes, an understanding of what they will deliver and which wax might suit your purposes.

The hints and tips from Collinite were gleaned from this excellent post on Detailing World forums:
http://www.detailingworld.com/forum/showthread.php?t=94452