~pjgh

… “a new rotarian”?

Have I joined the masons? No … I mean a novice of the art of automotive machine polishing with a rotary polisher. I do not call myself a master of this machine, but I have achieved a skill level that is competent and yet I am within memory of when I first started with such a machine. That first tentative pull on the trigger can be nerve-wracking and the experience thereafter can be quite daunting, often leaving the newcomer with a sense that they will never control the machine, let alone master it.

Here are a few words of advice to the newcomer:

Exercise caution! It is not especially difficult to get good results using a rotary, but the risk of damaging paint is significantly increased over other types of polisher.

First, you need to get your balance. Start out with a soft finishing pad and a finishing glaze, remove all the handles from the machine since these can often unbalance a newcomer and select a top panel that is comfortable to work on - bonnets or boots are good places to start. Hold the trigger handle in your right hand and support the machine underneath with your left hand, like lifting up a kitten; and therein you will understand how you need to be definite, but light with your touch.

Prime the pad - mist some QD over the dry pad and then apply 2-3 Smartie-sized blobs of polish equally spaced over the pad. It should be a misting, not a soaking! Dot the pad over the area you want to work, which should be around 24″ square, and then set the machine speed to 1. Spread the polish and then during this first go, simply stay on that low speed and move the machine around.

Your left hand supporting the machine gives you a natural reaction to lift the polisher up if things become uncomfortable. It will also help you to keep the pad flat - this is paramount with rotary polishing and an unevenly placed pad will simply have the polisher running away. You control the machine, not the other way around. Gradually relieve the support with your left hand and keeping a firm wrist understand that a slight dip forwards will have the machine running in one direction and a slight dip of that trigger handle will have it running the other way. Flat in the middle is prefect, but DO NOT let the machine linger for too long in any one spot. Keep it moving!

Once you have finished the set, the pad should be spurred to remove all the polish dust. Set the speed to slowest and start the polisher, pointing away from yourself and the car while gently holding a toothbrush against the pad. This action will purge the pad of polish dust which could result in a clogged pad that becomes incapable of actually polishing effectively and leading to a the pad sticking and skipping on the paint. Remember to mist the pad again prior to applying fresh dots of polish.

Second, a few more words of caution.

Swage lines and edges - I say stay off ‘em. Work up to the with the edge of the pad and you can correct scratches down them by whizzing down the at a fairly fast speed with little pressure and the polisher on a medium speed. Gently does it, basically. Those very light creases in bonnet centres are a killer! Keep off ‘em and don’t go side to side over them. When you meet panel edges, consider the rotation of the polisher and lean slightly to the side that throws off the panel, rather than into the edge with the side that pushed up into the edge. Door tops can be a challenge.

The amount of polish is also paramount. Too much an the polish will bake over, leaving you with a white glazed patch or simply go sticky and roll up into tacky balls of polish. Once again, 2-3 Smartie sized blobs is perfectly adequate. Dot over the area to be polished and spread once on a low speed.

Now we are ready to raise the RPMs and get the job done properly. Set the machine speed to around 1500 RPM (1800 RPM when you’re more confident) and then methodically work over the area side to side, and up and down a couple of times - the polish will be broken down now. Successively drop the speed and relieve the pressure with any number of further passes. This will fully work out the polish and on a low speed burnish in the depth. DO NOT stop once the polish has appeared to have cleared - this will leave holograms - this is exactly the point at which you MUST continue to work the polish out.

Now that you have experienced using the machine at a raised speed, let’s return to the technique for keeping your pad flat - slacken your grip! Tense arms make rotary polishing especially difficult. You do need strong wrists but your arms should be relaxed, as should your grip.

Now you are comfortable with keeping your pad flat and using that slight angle controlled from the trigger handle to affect the direction of the polisher your left hand is free guide the head of the machine around, but take care not to cover the intake port and keep your fingers clear of the spinning head. Your left hand should regularly drop off onto the paint to check for heat build up. Using your left hand is good because the rotation of the polisher is less likely to remove fingers if you accidentally touch the spinning head when cupping the head of the machine. You will get a nasty scrape and you won’t do it again!

Other health and safety measures are to wear eye shields, as you would with any power tool and ear plugs if you are going to be using the polisher for a long time or a few days in succession. Remember, you are dealing with a power tool and all the usual precautions should be taken.

Finally, a note about style.

You will find a lot of videos on the internet showing professional and seasoned rotarians moving the machine quickly all over the panel in an apparently random manner. Some even have a kind of dancing action going on! I’m not saying this is wrong since once you become accustomed to the machine you will understand that you get a lot of feedback from the paint and can literally, although probably not empirically, feel the surface and which areas need attention.

Always think about what it is you are going to do before touching the machine to the paintwork. When starting out, make consistent and definite passes - left to right, then up and down. Do this in a controlled manner and you will get good results.

I hope this is useful and instructive in getting you started with the rotary - simply put, relax, be in control, think about what you are doing … and the rest is practice.

3M Finesse-It III Fast Cut Plus (3M50417)/Green Pad (3M50487)
3M Finesse-It III Extra Fine Polish (3M80349)/Yellow Pad (3M50488)
3M Finesse-It III Ultrafina SE Polish (3M50383)/Blue Pad (3M50388)
3M Perfect-It III Finishing Glaze (3M09377)
3M Polish Rosa (3M80345)
3M Perfect-It Show Car Paste Wax (3M39526)

Autobright Power Buff
Autobright Used Car Glaze
Autobright Top Line
Autobright Foam Pad Polish
Autobright Purple Haze
Autobright Better Wax
Autobright TNT Treatment

Autoglym Super Resin Polish
Autoglym Ultra Deep Shine
Autoglym HD Cleanser
Autoglym HD Wax

Autosol Metal Polish

Car-Lack68 Nano-Systematic Care
Car-Lack68 Long Life Sealant
Car-Lack68 Shampoo

Clearkote Vanilla Hand Moose Glaze
Clearkote Yellow Moose Wax
Clearkote Carnauba Moose Wax

Collinite 476S
Collinite 845
Collinite 915

Dodo Juice Lime Prime Lite
Dodo Juice Rain Forest Rub Wax
Dodo Juice Orange Crush Wax
Dodo Juice Supernatural Wax

Duragloss 671 Swirl Mark Remover
Duragloss 601 Bonding Agent
Duragloss 105 Total Performance Polish
Duragloss 951 Aqua Wax

Finish Kare 1016 Shampoo
Finish Kare 1000P ‘Great White’ Paste Sealant

Gliptone Leather Cleaner
Gliptone Leather Conditioner
Gliptone Leather Air Freshener

Gtechniq P1/P2 - Nano polishes
Gtechniq C2 - Nano sealant
Gtechniq C3 - Nano sealant (Carnauba based)
Gtechniq G4, G1/G2 & G3 - Glass polish and sealants
Gtechniq W1/I1/L1 - APC, leather and fabric sealant

Lucas Slick Mist

Meguiars #83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish
Meguiars #80 Speed Glaze
Meguiars #3 Machine Glaze
Meguiars #7 Show Car Glaze
Meguiars #81 Hand Polish

Meguiars All Purpose Cleaner
Meguiars Glass Cleaner Concentrate
Meguiars Super Degreaser

R222 Concours Wax

Serious Performance Ultra Citrus Cleaner
Serious Performance Ultra Wheel Gel
Serious Performance Ultra Gloss Shampoo
Serious Performance Paint Cleanser
Serious Performance Super Sealant
Serious Performance Show Car Detailer
Serious Performance Quick Detailer

Swissvax Car Bath
Swissvax Onyx
Swissvax Best of Show
Swissvax Nano Express

First, a little history - glazes were initially designed for use in the bodyshop process to be used on freshly painted surfaces to improve gloss and continue to “feed” the paintwork, giving it a strong gloss and improving clarity. Glazes often revitalise paintwork through their oily wetting agents, “glazing oils” and over time, that very nature has become especially attractive to show car entrants to can apply a quick layering of an oily product to give an especially wet look on show day. In more recent times, acrylic versions of “glazing” products have come onto the market aimed at being used in a routine that might be finished with a sealant rather than a wax.

In plain terms, a glaze adds wetness and depth - that’s why you’d put it on the car. You would put it on after polishing (sometimes instead of a polish if you can get away with it) but before the sealant and/or wax. You can use a glaze after machine polishing with abrasive compounds/polishes and you can use a glaze over an AIO polish, like Car-Lack68 NSC or Autoglym Super Resin Polish. Whenever I’ve said about putting it on top of Car-Lack68 NSC we’re regarding the Car-Lack product as a polish. Yes, it is an AIO and contains a sealant, too but you can use a glaze on top. That leads us to another use for glazes but more about that in a minute … read on …

Glazes fall broadly into two categories - oily and acrylic. Oily glazes are Meguiars #7, Clearkote Red Moose Glaze, for example and acrylic glazes are the likes of Chemical Guys EZ Creme Glaze, Poorboys World Black Hole and Finish Kare 300, 303, etc.

Oily glazes are generally not best followed with a sealant, so the polish … glaze … seal … wax mantra might not play out especially well in that circumstance. Using an acrylic glaze, you can follow on with a sealant or wax. Both types of glaze will sit happily on AIOs, like Car-Lack68 NSC or AG SRP but acrylic is more suited.

… back to other uses.

Particularly oily glazes can be spread over the wax to give a really slick, deep look. Meguiars #7 is one such example and indeed the name, Show Car Glaze gives us a clue as to its intention. It can be used this way to give a really deep look for show day … kind of like an ancient “show detailer”. In fact, this is a “pure polish” with no abrasives. Working gently is the key so as not to disrupt the underlying wax. Be aware that if it rains, it will wash straight off - you can follow on with another layer of wax and this kind of sandwiching in works really well over a period of time … say, polish and wax one week, the next week wash, glaze and another layer of wax. This is especially good looking in high sun during the summer months.

Dodo Juice Lime Prime Lite can be used in a similar way - Dodo Juice confirm this. With a wax that is well cured, you can wipe over Lime Prime Lite gently after washing and drying to adequately prepare the surface for a second layer of wax.

I know the latter part of this discussion might well seem to overcomplicate the “rules”, but the rules are there to be broken. In the end it comes down to:

1. What are you working with?
2. What are you trying to achieve?

In the main, use a glaze after polishing to add gloss and depth, before sealing or waxing the look in. Use a suitable glaze for the products you are working with.

While the line between finishing polishes and machine glazes is getting more and more blurred, it’s often worth looking to Meguiars for a little distinction since their product lines have remained for many decades.

Meguiars #3 Machine Glaze is fantastic for putting “life” back into dry paint, especially single stage paintwork. The petroleum content in many polishes further dry out already dried paint when correcting neglected paint and this product is very good indeed for revitalising the surface and a good example of the initial intention of glazes. Good by hand, too … but nowhere near as good as #7 when used by hand.

Think of these old-fashioned glaze products as a “moisturiser” for paintwork - single stage, mostly.

I hope that helps you understand what a glaze is, why you’d use one and gives some examples for how and when you’d use one.

LSP? “Last Step Protection” … detailer-speak for wax or sealant; the last product applied that is there to protect the finish.

Your choice of LSP is very important. While it is true that pretty much all waxes and all sealants will be within a small band of each other in terms of looks, protection and ongoing looks, that band is actually quite wide when the subtleties are considered. Again, generally speaking sealants leave a glassy look which waxes provide a warmer depth. Your final choice of LSP will depend upon a couple of other factors, such as the age and style of the car but once you’ve decided upon which one you want to use … how do you get the very best from it?

First, application. It’s all in the preparation - this is a rule. Poor preparation and the wax will not be happy, nor will it improve the look.

Preparation comes with a number of considerations, but the end result must be the same - good looking, clean paintwork that is free of greasiness to give the wax the best chance of bonding. The process might be to machine polish with abrasive polishes and wipe down with an IPA solution, it might be to use an all-in-one polish that might well contain fillers, it might be to use a succession of products to provide a layered effect with a polish, glaze and sealant or it might be a simple pre-wax cleanser.

I’ll come onto that last one in a minute, but I will say at this stage that the lines of distinction between those products is often blurred. Whichever routine you use to prepare … the end result must be the same - good looking, clean paintwork that is free of greasiness to give the wax the best chance of bonding.

Back to the pre-wax cleanse. This is a step that I consider to be of more importance than we might think.

While most AIOs contain a chemical cleanser, they contain a number of other properties such as a light polish and a sealant - they live up to their name as a “one hit” product that covers a number of steps and a couple spring to mind as most suitable for just about any finish: Car-Lack68 NSC and Autoglym Super Resin Polish.

Many wax manufacturers will produce their own pre-wax cleanser, such as Victoria Wax with their Light and Deep Cleanse products, Zymol’s HD Cleanse, Swissvax Cleaner Fluid and Dodo Juice Lime Prime/Lite. It is not just limited to wax, Duragloss produce a “pre-bonding agent” for their sealants and it is this very product that brings me to consider the pre-wax cleanse is more important than we might think providing an interface product for the wax to bond … an epoxy, certainly for the Duragloss product, and an interface product that assists bonding.

While many waxes contain their own solvents and cleansing agents which clean up any greasiness and prepare for the wax to bond well, more boutique waxes … which is pretty much anything above basic waxes, like Collinite, Simoniz or Turtle Wax … more boutique waxes can really benefit from their own dedicated pre-wax cleanser. As discussed, this can often be an AIO polish, like Car-Lack68 NSC or Autoglym Super Resin Polish or in the absence of their own dedicated pre-wax cleanser, one of the good, more generic cleansers such as Dodo Juice Lime Prime/Lite, Serious Performance Paint Cleanser, Sonus Paintwork Cleanser or for polyaminosilicone sealants (that’s “pure” sealants, to normal people), Duragloss 601.

It is my considered experience that this step particularly sets the wax up for a long life; its “durability”, some might say.

Durability? What exactly does that mean? It might well mean the long life of the wax, the protection that it provides and the justification for the manufacturers’ claims of “up to 12 months”, but we want more out of our waxes … namely, good beading, continued water repellance and glossiness.

So, we must consider washing and maintaining. Washing the car is necessary for removing dirt and greasiness that is kicked up when the car is driven, or parked on the roadside.

We know that the wash routine is of paramount importance - shampoo at the correct dilution, two buckets so as not to continually work the removed dirt back over the paint, a sheepskin mitten with its deep pile, sheet rinsing to get the majority of water off and a drying towel to pat the remaining droplets off.

But what about the choice of shampoo? Well, unsurprisingly the formulators at the wax manufacturer will ensure that their shampoo will work with their products. You might well be thinking that a shampoo is a shampoo is a shampoo and how can it matter? Recall, we’re finding absolute perfection here!

Like a dedicated pre-wax cleanser for a particular boutique wax, the manufacturers’ shampoo is the best choice for maintenance. I have witness Dodo Juice Supernatural beautifully revived by their own Supernatural Shampoo, yet kill the beading of Swissvax Best of Show. Likewise, Autoglym Bodywork Shampoo and Conditioner is an excellent choice for their HD Wax but a poor choice for Chemical Guys Pete’s 53, for example. Try to keep manufacturers together but where you are using a mix of products there are a number of good choices as more generic shampoos - my favourite being Finish Kare 1016.

The shampoo will revive beading, sheeting and glossiness. It is with this in mind, coupled with the stronger application of wax prepared with a suitable cleanser/bonding agent that prompts me to say this: enjoy the wax, uncompromised by further products such as QDs or drying aids.

Sheet rinsing and patting off the remaining droplets with a drying towel is quite sufficient - remember, drying aids contain properties that break water down and so will reduce or entirely remove beading. Remember also that any product that you put onto the finish after the wax becomes the new LSP, so to speak. If you absolutely have to use such a product ensure that you also have a good, complimentary re-beading product.

I may appear to have tied myself up here in a tangle around QDs. Used purely as a drying aid with every wash is in my opinion unnecessary and detracts from the enjoyment of the wax itself, but further down the line as the beading starts to wane and the look, once washed, could be more glossy it is the quick detailer, show detailer or spray wax that provides a time-effective alternative to re-waxing.

You guessed it … I’m going to recommend selecting such a product from the same manufacturer as the LSP. This type of product varies from a simple QD that can revive the shine, through products rich in the same properties as the LSP to dedicated spray waxes and sealants.

Victoria Wax Quick Detail Spray, for example, is just that … a shine enhancing spray that boost the performance of the wax by cleaning off any greasiness back to a good wax surface. Duragloss 951 is a product rich in the same properties as their 105 Total Performance Polish (actually, a sealant) and will boost the performance of that sealant in the same way as Sonus Acrylic Glanz is specifically designed to refresh the look and protection of the Klasse/Car-Lack68 products. Show Detailers like Zaino Z8 are rich in gloss enhancing polymers to adjust the look of the wax, making it deeper and pure liquid sealants, like Dodo Juice Red Mist actually provide a definite layer of sealant over the LSP which gives its own look and protection, as does Swissvax Nano Express.

Selecting the right product is down to both a consideration of what will actually work best with your LSP and what it is you’re trying to achieve. In the early stages of the wax cycle, I believe it is best to simply wash and dry. As the cycle progresses it is sometimes necessary to switch to a wash/wax shampoo to revive beading and to use a spray product over the paint to revive glossiness and perhaps enhance protection. Towards the end of the cycle, that becomes absolutely necessary.

Of course, there’s nothing to stop you re-waxing mid-cycle, say after 6-8 weeks to enjoy a futher 6-8 weeks, rather than use additional products to stretch the cycle out to three months. You can do this without having to polish, but cleansing can be as quick a task as spritzing over with a QD and drying in preparation for this fresh layer of wax.

So, in summary …

Prepare the paint - abrasive polish or AIO polish
Prepare for the wax - complimentary pre-wax cleanser
Protect the paint - wax or sealant
Enjoy for 6-8 weeks with regular washing using a complimentary shampoo
Revive - either re-wax or use an additional product to revive beading and gloss
Enjoy for a further 6-8 weeks if re-waxed or 4 weeks if using additional products
Restart the cycle …

Practical examples?

Dodo Juice
Polish the paintwork to perfection
Pre-cleanse with Dodo Juice Lime Prime Lite
Wax with Dodo Juice Supernatural wax … leave 15 minutes, buff off, spritz with chilled distilled water after 30 minutes and re-buff
Enjoy for 6-8 weeks, washing with Dodo Juice Supernatual Shampoo
Revive initial looks with a fresh layer of wax (I actually use Dodo Juice Rainforest Rub at this stage, just because I like it) or switch to a wash/wax shampoo such as Dodo Juice Sour Power
Further revive beading and glossiness with Dodo Juice Red Mist
Enjoy for a further 4 weeks
Restart the cycle …

Let’s shake things up a bit and start with lightly swirled paintwork …

Duragloss
Hide swirling with Duragloss 671
Apply Duragloss 601 Pre-Bonding Agent to prepare for the sealant
Apply Duragloss 105 Total Performance Polish
Enjoy for 2-3 months washing regularly with Duragloss 901 Shampoo
As the beading starts to wane, revive with a spritz of Duragloss 951
Enjoy for a further month, or so
Restart the cycle …

How about using a mix of products? Say, for example, a winter protection?

Car-Lack/Collinite
Prepare with Car-Lack68 NSC … leave 30 minutes and do not buff off
Seal with Car-Lack68 LLS applied over the top of the haze and buff both off together
Wax with Collinite 476S or 915 depending upon light or dark coloured paintwork
Enjoy for 3-4 months through winter, washing regularly with Finish Kare 1016 shampoo
Particularly bright, crisp winter days might well make use of Zaino Z8 spritzed over after drying to deliver a really attractive finish
Move on to your springtime choice of products …

Springtime routine? Let’s use a number of products! We can machine polish later, but the long winter is over and we just want to get a fresh coat of something on the car …

Clearkote/Victoria Wax
Cleanse/Polish with Clearkote Vanilla Hand Moose Glaze
Deepen and fill some swirling with Chemical Guys EZ Creme Glaze
Wax with Victoria Wax Concours/Collectors … 2-3 coats applied in fairly rapid succession
Enjoy for 3-4 weeks washing regularly with Finish Kare 1016
Re-Wax after 3-4 weeks with a fresh coat of Victoria Wax Concours/Collectors preparing with a spritz of Victoria Wax Quick Detail Spray
Repeat a couple of times

Finally, how about a modernised legacy manufacturer?

Autoglym
Prepare with Autoglym Super Resin Polish for lightly swirled finishes or Autoglym HD Cleanser for well kept finishes
Wax with Autoglym HD Wax
Enjoy for 2-3 months washing regularly with Autogylm Bodywork Shampoo and Conditioner
As beading starts to wane, use Autoglym Aqua Wax to assist the drying process and leave a coating of waxiness to assist protection
Enjoy for a few more weeks
Restart the cycle …

Hopefully, there’s a good mix of routines to show off some examples of how keeping manufacturers together can be very beneficial, but also how you can deviate from that “rule” and still get excellent results that will last.

Momentum … once it has started, there’s no stopping it …

Might as well strap in and hold on because it looks like I’m already committed!

LOL … you guys
http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7552

There are a number of questions about waxes that come up again and again, such as:

How do I prepare a surface for waxing?
How long should I leave the wax before buffing off?
How long must I leave it before adding a second layer?
When is it fully cured?

This advice is, for the most part, about wax but much of it holds true for sealants.

Let’s tackle the first matter: Bonding

For a wax to bond to paint, it must be clean. There are a number of ways of cleaning paint in preparation for a wax - a 50/50 solution of IPA and distilled water, a dedicated inspection spray (like Menzerna Top Inspection, or Meguiars Last Touch), a pure hand polish (such as Meguiars #7 or #81), a paint cleanser (like Serious Performance Paint Cleanser or AIOs, like Car-Lack68 NSC, AG SRP) or a dedicated pre-wax cleanser (such as Dodo Juice Lime Prime Lite, Zymöl HD Cleanse or Swissvax Cleaner Fluid).

The paint should be squeaky clean and gleaming.

Now, let’s apply the wax - use bare hands or a foam applicator. The use of bare hands should be restricted to pure waxes, such as those from Dodo Juice, those that state they should be applied by bare hand like Victoria Wax or those which fashion dictates like Zymöl and Swissvax. If you get an adverse reaction when applying wax by bare hand, wash your hands thoroughly using a pH neutral soap with moisturisers and apply a moisturiser after drying. Foam applicators should definitely be used with waxes that have an obviously high solvent content, such as Collinite 476S. Disposal gloves can be worn as further protection from solvents in wax products and this is a practice that is advocated by professionals who are in contact with such chemicals on a regular basis.

Many engineered waxes will contain some cleansing elements and often the high solvent content will assist with the cleaning up of the surface and evaporate quickly to allow the wax to then bond to the paint. More pure waxes also contain solvents and will do this as a natural by-process, but to a lesser extent. Neither excuses poor surface preparation!

Bare hand application is simply a case of transferring an amount of the wax from the pot to the palm of one hand, lifting it with the fingertips of the other and working is against the fingertips of the first hand. Use fingertips to apply in a stroking/grooming action going back over the area to even up. Foam pad application is also as simple as patting a moistened applicator into the wax and then spreading over the car - unless the instructions state otherwise, use long strokes in a fore/aft direction on the top panels and up/down on the side panels. Apply as thin a layer as possible, since “less is more” … read on.

We now step back and leave the product to haze.

This is the point at which the wax will bond to clean paint and often called curing. Curing is a process which will continue long after the wax haze has been removed, so I prefer to call this bonding although the curing process does cover this phase and the next. When considering hazing, we see how “less is more” - haze is simply waste product that is removed when the wax is buffed off and serves no purpose to the overall look or protection, since it is simply not on the car! Furthermore, a whisper thin layer will haze over quickly and the solvents evaporate more rapidly - I believe this allows the wax to bond more effectively, although I have no scientific backing; just the long term effect that the wax has on paint when observed over a period of months.

Once hazed, the wax is ready to remove.

Removal is simply a case of folding up a microfibre towel into quarters and gently wiping the residue off. The curing phase will continue for up to a couple of days until the wax has reached its most hardened. Some waxes may be observed to “sweat” a little - Dodo Juice Supernatural is one very pure wax where this is quite apparent. The oils in the wax continue to evaporate and sometimes, a slight hologram effect can be seen on the paint and if left, a secondary haze may occur. This is quite natural and should be dealt with by a spritz of distilled water, ideally, or a QD and wiped over again with a clean microfibre towel.

The bare minimum length of time before a second layer of wax can be applied is about one hour. This allows the majority of any residual oils to evaporate and the outer skin of what is a micron thin layer of product to start to harden. This process continues over the next day, or so, and so ideally the surface should be left for a good day before applying a second layer of wax.

Some people advocate applying a second layer of wax almost immediately to ensure good coverage. While there is some merit to this method, it is better to ensure that the initial layer is applied with adequate coverage. There is one technique which might have some sound logic and assist with the rapid application of a second layer of wax - spit shining. This is a technique where chilled distilled water is misted over the surface after the initial haze has been buffed off to cause the outer shell of the wax to cure quickly due to the chilling effect. The second layer of wax is applied to the moistened surface and left to cure as normal. Some people advocate not removing the haze from the first layer and mist over that haze, applying the second layer of wax without buffing off the layer of first wax.

Spit shining aside, if a second layer of wax is applied too soon the solvents will simply wipe off the underlying, unhardened layer of wax and there is no actual gain in doing so. The curing process can clearly be understood as taking place as soon as the wax starts to haze and continues long after that haze has been removed. Since the word curing is set in most people’s mind as the process which takes place between application and hazing, we should call this phase hardening.

One final area to consider is the layered approach - applying a wax on top of a glaze, or a sealant. Simply put, the same rules apply - these products must be allowed to bond, haze, cure and harden before the next layer is applied. Some products will do this faster than others and some are more suited to waxes that are high in solvent content - the Car-Lack68 Nano Systematic Care polish is a very rapidly curing product becoming ready for the next layer within half an hour and when followed with their Long Life Sealant is a preparation ready for a wax as strong in solvents as Collinite almost immediately. Products from the same stable are in many cases designed to work together, so Chemical Guys EZ Creme Glaze followed almost immediately by Jetseal 109, left for half an hour and then topped with Pete’s 53 Black Pearl Signature Paste Wax is a routine that will work well.

I hope that this clarifies each stage of the waxing process, what is happening at each stage and summarises that wax should be applied to clean, well prepared surfaces in as thin a layer as possible given good coverage, allowed to haze over and then permitted to harden in its own time.

Have a lot of fun …

Dodo Juice designed their Supernatural wax to be the purest - no additional colour and no addition scent. Now in version two, the wax represents one of the finest that can be applied to a perfectly polished car and the growing list of ancillary products make up quite a boutique kit:

• Supernatural Wax - Plastic Tub
• Supernatural Wax - Machine Stick
• Supernatural Wax - Iroku Wooden Container
• Supernatural Applicator
• Supernatural Clay
• Supernatural Shampoo
• Supernatural Wash Mitten - the ‘Wookie Fist’
• Supernatural Drying Towel - the ‘Jedi Blanket’

Firstly, the wax itself.

While there is no added scent, there is a most delicious scent - think sugary, like fine toffee.

The surface should be prepared with their Lime Prime or Lime Prime Lite pre-wax cleanser to ensure that the surface is clean and ready to accept a wax. Following machine polishing, a wipe down with Lime Prime Lite is perfect - many surfaces will respond to the gentle cutting action of Lime Prime if surface swirling is present.

Using the supplied finger foam applicator, the wax seems very hard and appears reluctant to transfer to the applicator. While that is a concern, it is unfounded - the wax transfer to the applicator is quite sufficient to put down a whisper thin layer, almost imperceptible, that will cure perfectly … a little faith is required: this is after all, Supernatural!

Applied to the car and curing:

After a short while, which could be between five and fifteen minutes the wax haze is ready to be removed. While this can be undertaken at the first point it is ready to be removed, it does no harm to leave the wax curing on the paint for any amount of time - even an hour, if you want to work at that pace.

Removal is as pleasant as application - simply wipe off the haze gently with a fine microfibre towel. No hard rubbing is required and any hint of a sticky patch is quite simply down to having applied the initial layer too thickly; the scant instructions on the tub do say not to ‘cake the product on’. This is very much a “less is more” product and in many respects, haze should be considered waste - that is the residue which is buffed off.

The result? Perfection!

Sometimes, which has been more often than not in my experience, a secondary haze appears after about half an hour of buffing. This is to be expected, according to Dodo Juice, and something that is easily remedied. Simply wipe over the surface again with a clean microfibre. Personally, I find a light spritz of chilled distilled water assists the complete removal much more effectively and would cite that as the most useful hint at this stage.

You can see the light hazing that has appeared here, presenting itself as a hologram effect:

Misted with chilled distilled water and gently buffed, that secondary hazing does not reappear:

In summary, the wax and the applicator are to be recommended. The application and removal is phenomenally easy. The downside is the secondary hazing which, once expected is easily remedied. The products are well made, the plastic pots tactile and no doubt the Iroku wood tub is a sheer delight to own.

Beading? In the rain, the surface becomes speckled with small beads of water, well spaced and upright.

A Detailer’s delight:

Proceeding to the first wash, the shampoo and wash mitten are found to be the perfect tools for the job.

Made from thick wool, specifically commissioned by Dodo Juice, the wash mitten is quite possibly the softest and deepest wash mitten on the market. Depth of the wool is important so that dirt on the surface of the paintwork is not ground in by the washing action, but drawn into the wool fibres and held safely out of the way. The mitten should be rinsed well before use and rinsed well after each section of the car is washed before placing back into the bucket of suds.

The shampoo is so very concentrated, that two pumps per “standard Halfords bucket” is all that is required. One pump per three litres of water is the published dilution rate and this will generate a bucket full of fine foam.

Upon immersing the wash mitten it becomes apparent just how much liquid this mitten can hold. One whole gallon can be withdrawn from the wash bucket and held over the bucket to drain will then happily transfer two litres of suds to the car. Most impressive and more important, very safe for washing - the shampoo is very lubricating and the suds, while they dissipate quite quickly, certainly assist in lifting dirt from the surface for the mitten to collect up as a moraine of water washes most straight off the car.

Once washed, the beading is revived:

Patted dry:

The shampoo and wash mitten are perfect partners to the wax, allowing for a gentle removal of dirt. Any glossing agents in the shampoo revive the initial look of the wax and the initial beading is certainly revived. One concern for some would be how the foaminess of the shampoo dilution in the bucket is lost quite quickly, but the lubricity of the shampoo by far makes up for any loss of bubbles.

The the purest look on the perfect paint, it simply has to be Supernatural:

I know … I know … I love car cleaning products. They’re like good wine - you just have to have a variety.

Pressed hard to define my perfect combinations, I have to start with the two cars that I detail regularly - our own SAAB 900s, one white, one black, both single stage paint.

… for white:

• 3M Paint Rectification System as required
• Serious Performance Paint Cleanser
• Duragloss 601 Bonding Agent
• Duragloss 105 Total Performance Polish
• Finish Kare 1000P ‘Great White’ Paste Sealant
• Finish Kare 1016 Wash & Wax Concentrate
• Serious Performance Show Detailer

This routine would do for many single-stage light colours.

… and for black:

• Meguiars #83/#80 as required
• Meguiars #9 for swirl mark removal
• Dodo Juice Lime Prime Lite
• Dodo Juice Supernatural (Pure Carnauba Wax)
• Dodo Juice Supernatural Shampoo
• Dodo Juice Red Mist

Meguiars #7 can be used over a wax or sandwiched between wax layers during the summer months to give a deep, oily shimmer to the paintwork.

This routine would also do for many older single-stage dark colours. This is the most pure routine I have worked out to compliment our near perfectly kept Classic SAAB 900 convertible but many marques benefit from Swissvax Best of Show, if only for owner gratification.

The following are routines I would call ’standard’ when faced with an unknown car.

… for metallics, including silver and coloured mica metallics:

• 3M Paint Rectification System as required
• Serious Performance Paint Cleanser
• 3M Perfect-It Show Car Paste Wax
• Finish Kare 1016 Wash & Wax Concentrate
• Serious Performance Show Detailer

Some darker metallics, like green, benefit from a pure wax - Dodo Juice Rainforest Rub or Supernatural being prime examples.

… for clearcoated flat colours (light):

• 3M Paint Rectification System as required
• Serious Performance Paint Cleanser
• Serious Performance Super Sealant
• Finish Kare 1000P ‘Great White’ Paste Sealant
• Finish Kare 1016 Wash & Wax Concentrate
• Serious Performance Show Detailer

With higher pigment light colours, like yellow, as warming wax can be used - Dodo Juice Banana Armour being a prime example.

… for clearcoated flat colours (dark):

• 3M Paint Rectification System as required
• Dodo Juice Lime Prime Lite
• Dodo Juice Rainforest Rub/Orange Crush
• Dodo Juice Sour Power Shampoo
• Dodo Juice Red Mist

For some darker colours, like blue and even black, a colour-charged wax could be used - Dodo Jucie Blue Velvet and Purple Haze being prime examples. Fine cars would be finished with Dodo Juice Supernatural and top marques with Swissvax Best of Show.

The gentle art of hand polishing is often sidelined as a second-best method of achieving the perfect finish on automotive paint. As machine polishers have become more accessible and more competitively priced, one might ask why we carry on with hand polishing at all but there are any number of reasons. For me … simply put, I like to. I enjoy polishing paint by hand and I find that I can maintain a good finish to near perfection with ease.

So, to work … Firstly, consider the job in hand. At this point I will say that if you have a car that is covered in deep swirls and scratches, hand polishing is not going to be at all easy and might take a long long time to get right. That said, those kind of jobs are also not at all easy with a random orbital machine and will take a lot of time, eased only by experience and skill. There’s no reason why you should not bow out to someone with more experience and a machine polisher to get you up to scratch (so to speak). By all means have a go, but bear a few things in mind. Medium swirls and scratches are well within the scope of hand polishing and light swirling is easy to keep on top of.

Secondly, consider the amount of time it will take. Bear in mind that your own energy levels will be a consideration here as well as environmental considerations - check the weather for both bright sun and rain, since working outside in either conditions will cause problems. Tackle one panel at a time and if you run out of time or energy well no big deal … pick another day and do another panel. For big jobs that involve concentrated work on the whole car, plan to undertake the work over a number of sessions. To be fair, I think one or two top panels per session or one whole side per session. I find sides more difficult to work on.

I will say this - hand polishing is hard work. You will do a bad job if you are tired and cannot work the polishes through. You will have to repeat the work anyway on that panel so you might as well stop after a good success on one panel than stretch yourself over two and be disappointed.

Equipment? Well, if you’re doing sides make sure you have something comfortable to sit on or handy knee pads. Top panels can be worked on from a standing position.

So, we know what we are up against and how much time we have to do the job, or part of the job. We’re happy to split the job up over a number of sessions and we understand that we might need to stop due to energy levels.

What are the “rules” around hand polishing? Well, unsurprisingly they’re much the same as for machine polishing - use the least aggressive pad/polish combination that you think will to the job and increase as necessary, check your work often and be prepared for a number of “hits”.

Before looking at polishes, let’s look at pads. The good old terry pad with a pouch, as sold by Halfords, Tesco, Meguiars and a number of others is a tried and tested applicator, effective and a good pad to have in. A microfibre block is also an excellent choice. Beyond that, there are those hand pads that are made from the same foam as machine pads - applicators like the German Applicator or the Sonus Professional pads. Finally, there’s the machine pads themselves which can be attached to finger straps or handles by their velcro. Choose the ones you are most comfortable with - I like the Sonus Professional pads, microfibre blocks and terry pouched pads.

Now, onto the polishes. Polishes can be broadly broken down into a number of categories - Heavy, Medium, Light, Fine, Finishing, Pure and Glazing. There are also cleaner polishes that contain chemical cleaners to break down oxidisation and even “dual action” polishes that have a cleaning action and then when continued to work, they break down into a finer polish.

From heavy to fine, compounds should be worked in much the same way. On a surface that has been washed, dried and is free of dust and debris, prime the pad with a quick spritz of QD and then pop a couple of blobs of product onto the pad. Pick a work area between 12″ and 18″ square and rub the polish around that area. Work the polish in a consistent manner, so back and forth over the whole area, then left and right, then diagonal one way and then diagonal the other. Use a firm and even pressure at first and start to lessen up on the pressure as the polish starts to work - some may be hear to be abrading the surface and go quiet after a while. Always “work out” the polish - most polishes will worth through an reveal a glossy finish underneath, but some may be quite oily, especially the finishing polishes and pure polishes. Always read the label, since there may be special instructions, but generally that process will be fine and probably more effective than in a circular manner which is actually very tiring.

I said above that the general rule of thumb is to use the least aggressive pad/polish combo that you think will do the job, but if you are not making progress after a couple of hits, try a different combination by first selecting a pad with more bite and the same product and then a more aggressive product until you get some satisfaction. Also be away that many polishes will need finessing once worked through.

Different paints require different treatments. Some might be quite okay after a fine polish and not need finessing. Some might show up very light marring after such a polish and really benefit from a finishing polish. Likewise, some finishes might well be a little dry and benefit from an oil-rich pure polish to really bring the life back. Once polishes, a glaze is a very good step which adds a lot of gloss and wetness regardless of paint colour or finish - a step well worth doing.

Only when you are happy with the finish on a panel should you proceed to the wax or sealant and lock in your hard work. Remember that a car might take you a number of sessions and so you should concentrate on the work one panel at a time.

The last thing to consider when hand polishing is polishes with a filling content. Now we’ve polished our car properly with abrasive compounds and found out what hard work it is, it’s not a task that we want to have to undertake often or maybe even not again on that car. We do want to keep it looking good and there no reason not to use polishes with a filler content - as a general rule of thumb, polishes that call themselves a “wax polish” or an “all in one” will contain some fillers and do a light polish, fill in swirls and leave behind a limited layer of protection. These products can be used every so often to reduce the appearance of swirls that will undoubtedly plague your car again at some point. Some glazes also contain fillers or are heavy in oils that lessen the appearance of swirls.

When actually selecting polishes, it is wise to look at the instructions and to do some reading around their suitability for hand use. Almost all Fine, Finishing, Pure and Glazing polishes are going to work well by hand, but take some care in selecting anything more abrasive than that - often a little friction and machine power is needed to actually break down the compounds and work them. You might not be able to do this by hand and the compound will actually inflict greater swirls and scratches into the paint. If unsure, try it out in a inconspicuous place and inspect the results carefully.

I hope this has given a few pointers and some confidence to undertake the job with a product that is actually going to remove those swirls and scratches, rather than fill them. It is possible by hand, very rewarding, but be under no illusion - it is hard work.

Have fun …

… I know we’ve seen many posts about the “ultimate” finish for particular types of paint and paint colours, but I wonder what your favourite combinations of product are and what makes that combination special for you. I’ll start.

Single stage ‘Cirrus White’:
This paint is really hard and tends to need a polish more often than black, which I can get away with light polishes and glazes more often with.

Autoglym SRP … Collinite 476S - simple and effective … it “just works”. Collinite 476S is a no-brainer being a fantastic product with unrivalled durability and does not get in the way of the finish left by AG SRP. This is very much my “to go” combination for white - the AG SRP cleanses and polishes, while the Collinite also cleans and leaves an impressive glossiness.

Autoglym SRP … Chemical Guys EZ Creme Glaze … Chemical Guys Jetseal 109 - the SRP polishes and fills, the Chemical Guys EZ Creme Glaze really brings out the gloss and the Chemical Guys Jetseal seems to enhance that shine and provides a strong finish which lasts well. This finish really glows under street lamps. Awesome! Now if I could find just the right wax to finish this off with … I’d like to try Chemical Guys 50/50 on this finish, or one (or both) of the Dodo Juice whites, but having used Collinite 845 I think that might well be the icing on the cake for this routine.

See: http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3309 and
http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2949

Having since tried Finish Kare 1000P, I would now perfect this finish with routine with a coat of Finish Kare 1000P and claim this as my second most perfect routine for my white car.

Armor All Car Wax Gel/Armor All Hi-Shine Soft Paste Wax - I know I shouldn’t, but I really like this product … more so, since I’ve found the Hi-Shine Soft Paste Wax. The finish practically glows and is sooooo glossy. The problem is, it seems to produce the shimmering effect by fracturing the light, so reflections are not that clear. Being water soluble, I have made up my own spray wax out of the gel and a QD by diluting it further - both work really well. For a really cheap routine, polish first with Wilkinsons or Asda Car Polish, but steer well clear of Tesco Deep Shine Car Wax (it’s awful). What this will do is set off with a glossy polish/sealant which can be topped with the Armor All Hi-Shine Soft Paste Wax and maintained with the homebrew Armor All Car Wax Gel-based QDW While it is a cheap routine, it does show you don’t need to spend the earth to get great results. These don’t do anything for black, but would work well on light metallics.

See: http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3425 and
http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3705

It might be more a of flavour of the month than a routine I will return to again and again, but here’s another one for Single stage ‘Cirrus White’:
Duragloss 652, 601 & 105 - my introduction to the world of Duragloss. Their shampoo (the 901) is superb … nice to use and leaves a lovely sheen. These products are the paint cleanser (652), the pre-bonding agent (601) and the Total Performance Polish (105) products. The result? One of the clearest shines I have seen on white. I would like to try the swirl removing product (671) after the paint cleanser, since the cleanser offers no swirl filling and little removal. I would also like to try the Clear Coat Polish (111) as a final coat, since it is reputed to give a final bling to the Duragloss finish. Maintain with their AquaWax product, which contains many of the same elements as Total Performance Polish, but in a diluted spray form; that, or Chemical Guys Blitz, which will leave a final zing to the finish. The beading is almost as good as with Finish Kare 1000P and if the abrasives in 652 might be too much then a non-abrasive chemical cleanser like Serious Performance Paint Cleanser would be the right product. See below

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p=30997#30997 from
http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4016

Serious Performance Paint Cleanser … Serious Performance Super Sealant … Finish Kare 1000P Hi-Temp Sealant - My Lord! This is a stunning finish. I am soooo impressed with Finish Kare 1000P Hi-Temp Sealant … it’s almost like my car has a clearcoat … or has a second one if you already have one This is the brightest, wettest, most three-dimensional and mirror-like finish I have seen on white … truly something awsome While the Finish Kare 1000P is very much the product that makes this combination, the Serious Performance Paint Cleanser is excellent for bringing out the brightness in the paint.

Serious Performance Paint Cleanser … Duragloss 601/105 … Finish Kare 1000P Hi-Temp Sealant - a combination of the above two routines and a combination which I call PERFECTION FOR WHITE For maintenance washes I highly recommend Serious Performance Ultra Gloss Shampoo and Serious Performance Show Detailer - the shampoo works together with the sealant every wash to bolster the finish, restore glossiness and maintain perfect beading.

Single stage ‘Black’:
Autoglym SRP … Autoglym UDS … Meguiars NXT Tech Wax - this is one of the first details I did on our black car and the finish was stunning. I tried the SRP/UDS combo again recently and found I still liked it. UDS smells of pears … I have since leaned that the smell is half of the fun Since trying all sorts of new and interesting products, I am intrigued to try the Meguiars NXT waxes again … maybe the paste version this time? I would also like to try the Autoglym HD Wax on this, just so it is a full Autoglym detail.

See: http://www.pjgh.co.uk/gallery/tabitha_20070529 and
http://www.pjgh.co.uk/gallery/tabitha_20070531

Car-Lack68 NSC … Car-Lack68 LLS … Collinite 476S/915 - no explanation needed for this one. A great finish. Fun to apply and lasts ages Since trying Collinite 915, I would use that in preference to 476S on my single-stage black paint.

See: http://www.pjgh.co.uk/gallery/collinite_20070929 and
http://www.pjgh.co.uk/gallery/collinite_20080127

Car-Lack68 NSC … Meguiars #7 … Meguiars #26 (liquid) … Meguiars #16 - this is my “Meguiars” detail (no kidding ). I start with the Car-Lack product simply because it is the best … no contest whatsoever for a cleaner polish and follow on with the tried and tested Meguiars Mirror Glaze combination to give a really oil slick wetness and dark, deep shine. The #16 is used for glossiness on top of the darkening liquid wax and does not seem to interfere with the underlying textures - Collinite 845 could easily be used instead and would be arguably easier to apply than #16. The end result is a deep, oil slick, shimmering wet look.

Car-Lack68 NSC … Meguiars #7 … Meguiars #21 … Collinite 476S - a slight reworking of my “Meguiars” detail for giving the same effect but a longer lasting finish. It is not as dark as, but more glossy than the above detail.

Einszett Waxpolish Soft … Clearkote Yellow Moose Wax … Clearkote Carnauba Moose Wax - We’re starting to get to the best finish I have yet achieved. I like the way the Einszett Waxpolish Soft works and I use this when I want more of a filling glaze than is offered by Chemical Guys EZ Creme Glaze. The Clearkote waxes give a real detail to the depth of finish without darkening too much. This is an excellent combination for spring that can be applied quickly and make the most of the new spring light.

See: http://www.pjgh.co.uk/gallery/swd2008/DSCF7699, DSCF7700, DSCF7706 and DSCF7707

Einszett Waxpolish Soft … Pinnacle Souveran paste wax (3x coats) - this is the best I have seen on our black car. After one coat it looks good (leave it a few hours), after two it’s quite something and after three it breathtaking. The finish shimmers a lot more than the #7/#26 combo. Where should I go next?

See: http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3616

Whatever is said about the above detail, you cannot get away from how good a product Car-Lack68 NSC is. Spend time and get to learn how to use it properly. It’s a fantastic product that can be worked hard or not so hard depending on what you want to achieve - just leave it 20-30 minutes to do its magic and infact, you could just leave it there. LOVE IT

Funnily enough, I have found that a discontinued product ‘Rude Wax’ is actually very close to the Pinnacle Souveran effect

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5435

Duragloss 671 … Autobright Better Wax - Soooo easy … no polish necessary (unless you need a polish, of course) since Duragloss 671 gives an astonishing finish that is free of surface defects using very light abrasives and possibly some fillers. The result really is a wipe-on and buff-off technique to deliver an almost effortless and flawless result. Follow that up with a darkening buttery wax and you have … deep, deep paint heaven! Mmmm … this is a million miles better than the routine with #26 above, but I do have a soft spot for Meguiars #7 and would happily use it instead of Duragloss 671 if the paint was already perfect!

See: http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p=33917#33917 and http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5435

Meguiars #7 … Chemical Guys Pete’s 53 … Dodo Juice Red Mist - OMG! This is just stunning. Prepare the paint how you like with a finishing polish or a cleanser and then drop an application of Meguiars #7 on. This will really deepen the paint finish and give off a really oil slick black look. When topped with a coat of Chemical Guys Pete’s 53 wax, it looks stunning - the gloss comes through and the depth is unaffected. Chemical Guys Pete’s 53 wax is soooo easy to apply with a moistened foam applicator and a breeze to remove. Finally, spritz the finish with Dodo Juice Red Mist. If you thought you could not squeeze any more out of the finish, try Dodo Juice Red Mist - it slickens the finish, leaving is so smooth to the touch and seems to product a uniformly clear finish for the eye. Beading is astonishing

See: http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6315

This is my ultimate finish on black and I think I could only ever better it by burnishing such a perfect finish with a polishing machine before topping absolute perfection with these products, which for me represent the very best that I could put on my black car. For maintenance, I adore Zymöl Auto Wash and perhaps a spritz of Finish Kare 425 after the wash to really help repel dust. That, or yet another wipe over with Dodo Juice Red Mist once dried … just because

Clearcoated metallic light ‘Silver’:
Chemical Guys EZ Creme Glaze … Collinite 915 - after a machine polish, the Chemical Guys EZ Creme Glaze really brought out the flake. The 915 seemed to pip 476S in the looks department and was more apparent than on black, surprisingly

I tried this out on my pal’s car and we were really chuffed with the finish.
See: http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3446